Do you find you're suffering from choke changing-itis? Mike George investigates the ailment

Choke changing-itis is an ailment which has afflicted all of us at one time or another, and I suffered from it as badly as anyone years ago when I had a Beretta 682 Sporter.

Then I got completely seduced by the handling qualities of a fixed-choke Winchester 6500 Sporter, and never wished to own a multichoke again.

Frantically changing chokes

If you have a multichoke it is handy to be able to use the full and 3/4 tubes on the occasional wildfowling trip, but 1/4 and 1/2 is a good general compromise for game, clays and woodpigeons.

Stick with your multichoke by all means, but remember that good technique and constant practice are the secrets of shotgun marksmanship and consistent clayshooting, and frantically changing chokes rarely helps very much.

What shotgun choke would you suggest for gameshooting?

Q: I have acquired a very nice side-by-side for gameshooting plus a few club clays in summer but I find it is choked full and full. I can get a gunsmith to open out the chokes, but what choking do you suggest?

A:  Full and full for most game and clay work is going to be like shooting with a rifle.

You may miss clays and birds, and some of the birds you do hit, except the ultra-high ones, may be needlessly damaged.

The most practical choking for any gun that’s going to be used for a bit of everything is quarter and half, so I suggest you go for that.

On a technical point, any operation which involves removing metal from a barrel means that it should be re-proofed when the work is complete but most gunsmiths don’t bother submitting guns to the Proof House after such minor work has been done.

As well as choke opening, this also includes having forcing cones lengthened, and barrel porting on competition guns.

Technically speaking – any choke removal should result in a gun being sent to the Proof House for re-proof.