One of the biggest mistakes that you see in spring-powered guns is inappropriate lubrication. Here is a guide on how to lubricate your airgun springer
When people first set out to buy an airgun, they may well decide to pick a springer airgun over a PCP because it’s easier to maintain, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t need looking after, and knowing how to lubricate your airgun springer is a must-have skill. So whether you’re using it on the airgun range, for pest control or whether you just enjoy some backyard plinking, here is our guide on how to lubricate your springer airgun.
Click here for more advice on how to get the best springer airgun setup.
Which lube should I use?
Molybdenum-based lubricants are by far the most common and easy to buy for airgun use. From standard moly like Abbey LT2, through high-moly content pastes such as TbT Bum-Slide to dry-moly powders, which can be burnished into a metal surface, there is a formula for everyone.
Never use silicon-based lubricants, as they are not suitable for metal-to-metal applications!
Oils have no place inside a spring-powered airgun, but a good-quality gun oil should be used to keep the metalwork in tip-top condition.
Where should I put it?
For our customer guns we use a standard moly on the springs, plus Bum-Slide on the outside of the piston, on the rear edge of the piston seal, and on all other metal-to-metal contact areas.
How much should I use?
For the spring you want a pea-sized blob, around the size of a thumbnail, in the palm of one hand. Then slowly pull the spring through it and work it in so it has a very thin layer all over, finally pulling the spring through while gripping tightly so most of the grease is left on your hand. That is plenty! A lightly lubricated spring with correct-fitting guides negate the need for a piston sleeve in most cases, saving you time, moving weight and potential future wear problems.
Everywhere else we use Bum-Slide in tiny amounts. If you have polished your piston so it’s a nice shiny finish, a small amount on the tip of a finger can be worked into the surface until it turns a dull grey. For the rear of the piston seal, I usually use the remnants on my fingertip from lubing the piston. Likewise with other metal-to-metal areas, a tiny amount is all that’s needed.
Any finishing touches?
All your efforts at lubricating your springer will come to naught if you don’t degrease the inside of your compression tube. When you push the piston back in, the seal will scrape all the old grease off the walls and take it down to the end, where it will diesel away for ages. Always clean, degrease and dry thoroughly before rebuilding.