Japanese food is not all about sushi and raw fish. Game features as well, with duck gyoza (dumplings) especially popular. Take your time to prepare these for amazing results.

• one mallard • one celery stick
• vegetable oil • fresh chilli
• four spring onions • Japanese
sake rice wine (see Tips) • Ume
plum seasoning (see Tips) • fresh
parsley • 2oz Atoria beef suet
• 4oz plain flour • milk

1. Cut out the duck breast, skin it and dice it into pea-sized chunks, removing any fat or sinew. Finely dice some celery, fry it in a pan with a dash of vegetable oil, add the duck and stir. Add some finely diced chilli and spring onion, a small shot of sake, two teaspoons of Ume and the chopped parsley. Cook for five minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed, then remove from the heat and leave to cool.
2. Make a suet pastry by mixing together 2oz suet, 4oz of plain flour and three to four tablespoons of cold water (see instructions on the side of the suet packet). Roll out the pastry on a floured surface until it is as thin as a table mat. Cut out circles, using an upturned mug as a template. Place the circles on a baking tray lined with baking paper and spoon a small amount of the cooled duck mixture into the centre of each. Fold the circles in half, sealing the edges with the prongs of a fork. Brush the filled dumplings with a little milk and cook for 15-20 minutes in an oven at 200ºC (400°F, gas 6) until brown.
3. Serve with a tossed Japanese salad of lettuce, nuts, chopped orange and a dash of sesame oil. Wash down with warm sake.

Ume is a clear red liquid made from pickled plums and salt. If you can’t manage to track it down in the shops, use two teaspoons of plum jam, half a teaspoon of salt and a dash of wine vinegar, soy sauce or Balsamic vinegar. You can use dry sherry instead of sake. Keep the duck carcase for game stock. Don’t overfill your suet circles — you will need them to be less than half-full to enable a decent fold-over.