Apart from the wine and the beer, one of the many things I like about Germany is the way that hunting ? especially of roebuck ? is an accepted way of life. Even if you entered a hotel in Bavaria and told them you are there to shoot deer, you would be made willkommen. So, on to this recipe steeped in Germanic rural cuisine. I first ate it in a bar in Munich ? the blue-and-white cheese was reminiscent of the regional Bavarian flag and the roe deer kidneys, were simply ausgezeichnet (excellent).


? roe deer kidneys ? butter and black pepper ? rosemary ? garlic ? medium-sized mushrooms ? any mild, soft, blue cheese ? cured ham ? sauerkraut


1. Slice the roe deer kidneys lengthways and remove the white core.

2. Peel off and discard the thin skin that covers the kidney and slice into thumbnail-
sized pieces.

3. Into a hot frying pan, add a knob of butter and fry the kidneys with some black pepper for about three minutes, adding some chopped rosemary and finely chopped garlic. Clean your mushrooms, leave the skin on, but remove the stem, chop the stems finely and fry these also with the kidneys.

4. Place your kidney pieces and chopped mushroom stems on to the inverted mushroom cup.

5. Cover with a thin slice of blue cheese and wrap up the mushroom with the cured ham.

6. Pour any leftover butter from your pan on to some tinfoil and place your parcels
on to the buttered foil.

7. Place in an oven at 180°C for about 10 to 12 minutes and allow the cheese to melt and
the cured ham to crisp up.


Obviously, the bigger the mushroom, the longer it?ll take to cook. Make sure your kidneys are almost cooked before you put them on to the mushroom. One kidney should be sufficient to fill four medium-sized mushrooms and feed one person. You can use any soft, blue cheese, such as dolcelatte, gorgonzola or even stilton.

You could always serve this dish with some bread, but also try it with sauerkraut (sweet pickled German cabbage).

You can buy a large jar of it from supermarkets for about £1.