The dark, herby flavours of wild boar are brought out with a simple marinade, which also works with rare-breed pork, says Rose Prince
I have been fascinated by wild boar since the late 1990s, when – on one of my very first food writing assignments – the national newspaper Daily Express sent me to deepest Dorset with a stalker to look for them in some woodland. I only saw – or think I saw – the rear end of a wild pig dashing away from us, but I wrote up the story nonetheless.
Local farmers convinced me of the necessity to cull these highly successful, naturalised wild animals, whose beauty I also appreciate greatly, so I have always sought out their meat when possible. When I cannot find real wild boar, I enjoy mimicking the dark, herby flavours of the meat using a traditional breed of pork – Tamworth or Oxford sandy and black, for example. If you can find a source of mangalitsa pork, it is possibly the closest that a domesticated pig gets to its wild and distant cousin.
The marinade in this recipe will give pork a similar flavour to wild boar – it is all in the juniper berries and lemon.
Wild boar carries very little fat, so roast it gently at 160°C/Gas Mark 3 or it can turn tough and dry. Marinate it for several hours or overnight. Slice the parsnips less than 2mm thick so the gratin cooks through, and if both dishes share one oven, finish the parsnips under the grill. A traditional breed of pork, such as Tamworth or Oxford sandy and black, takes the same marinade well.
Wild boar contains very little fat, so it needs gentle cooking. Rose Prince roasts it at 160°C/Gas Mark 3 for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes after marinating, then rests it for 5 minutes before carving.
Several hours or overnight in the fridge, in lemon rind and juice, crushed juniper, bay, dried oregano and olive oil.
Yes. The marinade gives pork a similar flavour to wild boar; Rose Prince suggests a traditional breed such as Tamworth or Oxford sandy and black, or mangalitsa if you can find it.
Less than 2mm thick if possible, sliced on a mandolin or by hand, then layered with thyme, salt and pepper and baked in garlic-infused milk and cream for about 45 minutes.
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