A young peregrine’s first pheasant is an occasion worth celebrating and José Souto marks the milestone with a delicious katsu-style dish
My good stalking buddy Ian Richardson gave me the idea for this recipe. He makes a very similar dish and it’s a great meal that takes no time.
I first made this recipe quite a while ago with the first pheasant caught by my peregrine, Isabela. I remember it well in that she had been quite a hit-and-miss merchant in her first year. Like all young peregrines, her footing was terrible, even on partridges. This is why many young peregrines do not make it to maturity – if they cannot quickly learn to hunt and kill after leaving their parents, they will starve.
This particular day, I was flying out on the Cambridgeshire Fens. I normally spy out the fields for potential slips, but on this day I decided to walk a rape field, allowing the bird to wait on around 250ft to 300ft above me.
As I walked, she followed, keeping a good pitch above me and intently watching my every move. I sent Chloe, my pointer, to search for anything that was held up in the cover. Since Isabela was up commanding the skies, any game was certain to clamp down and wait until the last second before it broke cover. Chloe ran on and skidded to a stop in one of those classic moments when her body caught up with her nose.
The dog was set solid and Isabela knew exactly what was happening as she shifted her position to be above the dog. As I approached the dog, her tail started wagging, which meant the game had moved. I double-checked the bird’s position and sent the dog in to flush. Chloe ran forward into a thick clump of rape. It should have given up a gamebird, but nothing. She went on point again a little further on and again we went to flush, but nothing. This happened three times.
At this point, I was looking at the dog thinking “you are having me on”, especially as she was now pointing at a spot not far from where we had started. Again, I approached the dog, with the falcon faithfully waiting above. This time, before I got near, a big old cock bird broke cover and Isabela raced towards it.
The anticipation of the flushes meant she was all wound up and coming in at a phenomenal speed of about 100mph. She hit the pheasant so hard that it bounced about 10ft in the air. When it settled on the ground, she gracefully swung around to land on the prize.
That evening, we had katsu-style pheasant from the breasts of that bird. Isabela had the legs and neck, and I have the long tail feather in my car to mark her first one.
Sweat the onion and garlic gently without letting them colour, then reduce the sauce by a third before the cream goes in, so it ends up thick enough to coat the pheasant. Keep the deep fat fryer at 170°C so the panko crumb turns golden while the breast pieces stay moist.
Remove the inner fillet from each skinless breast and cut the breast in half lengthways, giving three pieces, then coat them in a mix of panko breadcrumbs, a little flour and beaten egg.
José Souto heats the oil to 170°C in a deep fat fryer and fries the coated pheasant until golden brown.
The sauce here is built on tikka paste, chilli and stock, reduced and finished with double cream and coriander, rather than a traditional katsu curry sauce.
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