TEST: Venison steak, cheese and chips baguette toastie

There is a particular kind of food that only makes sense after a long day in the field, or a longer evening in good company. Tim Maddams found his version of it in France, where the late-night baguette stuffed with rare beef, melted cheese, chips and a punchy sauce is something close to an institution. This is his wild venison take on it.

In France, the post-pub snack is taken seriously. One that stuck with me was a toasted baguette packed with rare beef, cheese, chips and a sauce called sauce Americaine. It is not refined, but it is very good indeed.

This version swaps the beef for wild venison. Rather than mincing the meat, I cook a whole roe deer backstrap like a steak, rest it, then slice it thin and layer it into the bread. The result is hearty, messy and exactly the sort of thing you want to eat with your hands. It is a fitting way to make the most of your quarry.

Tips for the best venison toastie

Rest the venison well before slicing. This keeps the juices in the meat rather than in the bread, which is what stops the baguette going soggy. A roe backstrap is lean, so do not be tempted to cook it beyond medium-rare; treat it as you would a good steak.

Serving suggestion

This is a relaxed lunch or casual supper rather than a dinner-party dish. A simple green salad cuts through the richness, and a cold beer is the natural partner. Pickles or cornichons on the side are a good idea if you like a sharper edge.