Selena Barr rounds up the restaurants racing the first grouse of the season off the moor and onto the plate, from Leith to Chelsea. Here is where to eat grouse between 12 and 18 August, and what is on the menu
The annual Great Grouse Race brings a unique take on the “drive for freshness”. The foodie equivalent of the madcap Beaujolais Nouveau run, the eccentric British tradition of rushing the length and breadth of the country to provide pubs and restaurants with fresh young grouse on the Glorious Twelfth is decades old.
Gone are the days when the hungry would wait all night in London’s King’s Cross station for the night train from Scotland bringing the first grouse of the season. Nowadays cars and motorbikes fitted with electric chillers wait on the edge of moors to speed the first birds to restaurant tables. However, delivering the grouse in time for supper takes an enormous amount of logistical coordination. From Yorkshire it takes at least four hours to get to London – and from Scotland, even longer.
So which venues will be serving grouse this week? We have rounded up some options for you.
The Kitchin, Leith, Edinburgh

The Jugged Hare, City of London – liver pâté on toast, Savoy cabbage and bacon, game chips, bread sauce and red wine jus
The Hawthorn, Shepherd’s Bush – birds collected from the North Yorkshire Moors that morning, served from 8pm; whole roast grouse with game chips, bread sauce and redcurrant jelly, £40pp
The Cinnamon Club, Westminster – clove-smoked grouse breast with chickpea bread and Rajasthani tarka dal
The Shed, Notting Hill – Glorious Twelfth feast, six courses with whole grouse main, £75
Rules, Covent Garden
Sussex, Soho – young Yorkshire grouse with elderberries, cauliflower purée and crispy bacon; only 120 birds across the whole group this week, so pre-order essential
Rabbit, Chelsea
The Pig’s Ear, Chelsea
The Black Lamb, Wimbledon Village
The Caddy Mann, Jedburgh, Scottish Borders
Bouchon Racine, Farringdon – roast grouse with Armagnac gravy, liver toast, pommes gaufrettes and bread sauce
Sussex, Soho – separate six-course grouse menu with wine pairing
Gleneagles Townhouse, Edinburgh
Galvin La Chapelle, City of London – annual grouse dinner, five courses with paired wines, £165
Harwood Arms, Fulham
It is the annual dash to get the first grouse of the season from the moor to pubs and restaurants in time for dinner on the Glorious Twelfth. It is the foodie equivalent of the Beaujolais Nouveau run, and the tradition is decades old.
At least four hours from Yorkshire, and longer again from Scotland. Cars and motorbikes fitted with electric chillers wait at the edge of the moor so the birds can start the journey the moment they come off it.
By rail. Diners once waited through the night at London’s King’s Cross station for the sleeper from Scotland carrying the first grouse of the season.
It is worth it, and in some cases essential. Sussex in Soho has only 120 birds across the whole group for the week and asks for pre-orders, while The Shed’s six-course Glorious Twelfth feast and Galvin La Chapelle’s five-course grouse dinner are both set menus on fixed dates.
Get the latest news delivered direct to your door
Discover the ultimate companion for fieldsports enthusiasts with Shooting Times & Country Magazine, the UK’s leading weekly publication that has been at the forefront of shooting culture since 1882. Subscribers gain access to expert tips, comprehensive gear reviews, seasonal advice and a vibrant community of like-minded shooters.
Save on shop price when you subscribe with weekly issues featuring in-depth articles on gundog training, exclusive member offers and access to the digital back issue library. A Shooting Times & Country subscription is more than a magazine, don’t just read about the countryside; immerse yourself in its most authoritative and engaging publication.