Is your dog really to blame? 11 handler mistakes that create problems in gundogs

After almost 30 years of working with gundogs, I’ve learned that when something isn’t right, we usually look at the dog. But before that, every handler should ask: what am I doing?

Dogs are extraordinarily good at reading us. They notice our body position, confidence, timing and consistency. We communicate with them without saying a word – and sometimes we inadvertently teach the very behaviour we later try to correct. Here are the most common mistakes I see handlers make.

Long, infrequent training sessions

Marathon sessions where the dog mentally switches off rarely achieve anything useful. Daily bursts of good-quality work build and maintain the relationship between dog and handler and, importantly, prevent bad habits appearing. Short, successful sessions are far better than continuing until a dog loses concentration or enthusiasm (when handler frustration occurs).

There is value in stopping while things are good. A clever handler learns when enough has been achieved and when to finish training.

Starting with the wrong mindset

If you start working with your dog when frustrated, impatient or stressed, don’t be surprised when the session doesn’t go to plan. In my experience of how packs work, the leader is not the biggest, toughest or noisiest dog – it is the calm, confident one to which the pack responds.

Sending the correct non-verbal messages will put you in the position of respect and once you have the dog’s respect, you will have the dog’s ear. How you approach the dog matters.

Dwelling on mistakes

Dogs live in the moment. Handlers don’t. The dog is not making mistakes to annoy you. You will have a different dog on the shoot day than at training – you feel and act differently, so why shouldn’t it? Not understanding this creates handling changes which can be detrimental.

We worry what everyone thinks. Don’t. Put your relationship with the dog first. Even seasoned dogs develop habits or change behaviour. Don’t carry frustration; put it behind you and move on. Your dog already has.

Too much eye contact

People naturally seek eye contact, and handlers can become preoccupied with this. In a pack, the members look to the leader for direction – if the leader is looking at them, no-one is assessing the situation. To a dog, the absence of eye contact can simply mean that everything is fine and under control.

I use eye contact as a visual reprimand. We all remember “that look” we got as children – it is the same thing. If your dog is behaving in the way you want, just ignore it.

Talking and touching too much

Similarly, dogs don’t need running commentary or frequent pats. When a pack are working, they move as individuals and with purpose. Communication is non-tactile, non-verbal. After the hunt you will see them playing, touching and calling to one another.

Constant chatter can turn your voice into background noise and make important commands less distinct. Dogs see informal touch as play and a distraction. When you’re working, keep communication clear and meaningful. Save play for when you get home.

Not understanding how much information your dog is absorbing

Handlers often think communication begins when they give a command, but it starts long before that. Your dog is watching you all the time: your state of mind, body language, movements, and behaviour are constantly providing information. Be aware of everything you do when you’re working together.

A good example is sending your dog. Don’t just think of the command and your arm. Your stance and movement should support the direction you’re asking the dog to take. Your whole body is communicating with the dog. Use it.

Not correcting unwanted behaviour immediately

Timing is crucial here. If you’re going to correct something, do it at once – or not at all. Seeing unwanted behaviour and addressing it later makes it hard for the dog. It doesn’t understand the delay; the learning opportunity has gone. In fact, it is detrimental to correct later, as it’s perceived as erratic behaviour, making you an unbalanced leader.

And when I say correct, this is not a forceful or abusive correction – we are looking to gain the dog’s respect, not its fear. This is critical.

Trying to achieve too much, too soon

The temptation is to move on to the next stage. Don’t rush – consolidate each step.

Training isn’t a race and dogs don’t all progress at the same speed. Don’t put yourself under pressure – if the dog is not ready to be taken out, leave it at home. You will do more damage acting prematurely. Better to take your time and prioritise your partnership.

You can never go too slowly, but you can go too fast.

Blowing the whistle at the wrong time

Timing is everything. The dog associates the whistle with whatever it is doing at that moment. If we want a whistle to mean something specific, we must be precise about when we use it. Blowing the whistle when the dog is running away will teach the dog to associate the whistle with that activity.

Don’t keep blowing the whistle if the dog is not listening. I blow the whistle when the dog is returning to reinforce the message.

Not preparing properly for gunshot

Once your dog has accepted distant gunfire, that doesn’t mean it will be okay with you firing over its head. I see this repeatedly. Dogs don’t have ear protectors, and this experience can create irreversible damage. At the slightest sign of gun-shyness stop and seek professional help. Enough said.

Boss first, friend second

In conclusion, good gundog training isn’t simply about commands; it’s about learning to communicate in a way the dog understands, building a connection and, from that, developing reliable control. A dog will seldom respond well to a handler it doesn’t respect. Boss first. Friend second.

Ian Cooper is a master dog trainer and canine behaviourist based in North Devon.