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Where to eat grouse this week: the Great Grouse Race is on

Selena Barr rounds up the restaurants racing the first grouse of the season off the moor and onto the plate, from Leith to Chelsea. Here is where to eat grouse between 12 and 18 August, and what is on the menu

The Jugged Hare in the City of London, one of the restaurants serving grouse on the Glorious Twelfth
The Jugged Hare on Chiswell Street serves its grouse with liver pâté on toast, Savoy cabbage and bacon.

The annual Great Grouse Race brings a unique take on the “drive for freshness”. The foodie equivalent of the madcap Beaujolais Nouveau run, the eccentric British tradition of rushing the length and breadth of the country to provide pubs and restaurants with fresh young grouse on the Glorious Twelfth is decades old.

From moor to table: how the first grouse reach London

Gone are the days when the hungry would wait all night in London’s King’s Cross station for the night train from Scotland bringing the first grouse of the season. Nowadays cars and motorbikes fitted with electric chillers wait on the edge of moors to speed the first birds to restaurant tables. However, delivering the grouse in time for supper takes an enormous amount of logistical coordination. From Yorkshire it takes at least four hours to get to London – and from Scotland, even longer.

So which venues will be serving grouse this week? We have rounded up some options for you.

Which restaurants are serving grouse on 12 August?

The Kitchin, Leith, Edinburgh

Chef Tom Kitchin at his Leith restaurant, one of the first to serve grouse on the Glorious Twelfth
Tom Kitchin’s Leith dining room is among the first in the country to get grouse on the plate.

The Jugged Hare, City of London – liver pâté on toast, Savoy cabbage and bacon, game chips, bread sauce and red wine jus

The Hawthorn, Shepherd’s Bush – birds collected from the North Yorkshire Moors that morning, served from 8pm; whole roast grouse with game chips, bread sauce and redcurrant jelly, £40pp

The Cinnamon Club, Westminster – clove-smoked grouse breast with chickpea bread and Rajasthani tarka dal

The Shed, Notting Hill – Glorious Twelfth feast, six courses with whole grouse main, £75

Grouse menus on 13 August

Rules, Covent Garden

Sussex, Soho – young Yorkshire grouse with elderberries, cauliflower purée and crispy bacon; only 120 birds across the whole group this week, so pre-order essential

Rabbit, Chelsea

The Pig’s Ear, Chelsea

The Black Lamb, Wimbledon Village

The Caddy Mann, Jedburgh, Scottish Borders

Roast grouse in Farringdon on 14 August

Bouchon Racine, Farringdon – roast grouse with Armagnac gravy, liver toast, pommes gaufrettes and bread sauce

A six-course grouse menu on 15 August

Sussex, Soho – separate six-course grouse menu with wine pairing

Grouse in Edinburgh on 17 August

Gleneagles Townhouse, Edinburgh

Grouse dinners on 18 August

Galvin La Chapelle, City of London – annual grouse dinner, five courses with paired wines, £165

Harwood Arms, Fulham

Frequently asked questions

What is the Great Grouse Race?

It is the annual dash to get the first grouse of the season from the moor to pubs and restaurants in time for dinner on the Glorious Twelfth. It is the foodie equivalent of the Beaujolais Nouveau run, and the tradition is decades old.

How long does it take to get grouse from the moor to London?

At least four hours from Yorkshire, and longer again from Scotland. Cars and motorbikes fitted with electric chillers wait at the edge of the moor so the birds can start the journey the moment they come off it.

How did grouse reach London before the chilled cars?

By rail. Diners once waited through the night at London’s King’s Cross station for the sleeper from Scotland carrying the first grouse of the season.

Do you need to book to eat grouse on the Glorious Twelfth?

It is worth it, and in some cases essential. Sussex in Soho has only 120 birds across the whole group for the week and asks for pre-orders, while The Shed’s six-course Glorious Twelfth feast and Galvin La Chapelle’s five-course grouse dinner are both set menus on fixed dates.

Selena Barr

About the author

Selena Barr

Originally cutting her teeth as Shooting Times news editor two decades ago, her career in sporting journalism has taken her all over the world turning field adventures into reports that focus on conservation and sustainability.

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